The History of Native American Jewelry

Native American jewelry has a rich history dating back thousands of years, with each tribe developing its own distinct styles, techniques, and symbolism. It has always been more than just adornment—it holds cultural, spiritual, and social significance.

Early Native American Jewelry (Pre-Colonial Era)

Before European contact, Native Americans crafted jewelry using natural materials such as:

  • Shells (e.g., wampum beads from the Northeast tribes)
  • Stone (including turquoise, widely used in the Southwest)
  • Bones and animal teeth
  • Wood and plant fibers
  • Copper and other native metals (used by Great Lakes and Mississippian cultures)

Many early pieces were used for ceremonial purposes, trade, or as personal talismans.

Spanish Influence and the Introduction of Metalwork (16th–19th Century)

With the arrival of Spanish explorers in the 1500s, metalworking techniques like silversmithing were introduced to Southwestern tribes, particularly the Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi. By the 1800s, Navajo artisans had learned silversmithing from Mexican craftsmen, incorporating European methods while maintaining indigenous aesthetics. Silver became a major element in Native jewelry, often combined with turquoise, coral, and jet.

Signature Native American Jewelry Styles

  1. Navajo Jewelry – Known for bold silverwork, large turquoise stones, and intricate stamp work.
  2. Zuni Jewelry – Famous for fine stone inlay, mosaic designs, and petit point (tiny, precision-cut stones set in silver).
  3. Hopi Jewelry – Recognized for overlay techniques, where a silver design is cut out and placed over another silver piece, creating depth.
  4. Plains and Eastern Tribes – Used wampum (purple and white shell beads), beadwork, and quillwork for jewelry and adornments.

20th Century and Beyond

By the early 1900s, Native American jewelry became highly sought after by collectors and tourists. The Santa Fe and Gallup markets in the Southwest played a big role in popularizing Native jewelry. Artisans adapted their designs for commercial appeal while preserving cultural integrity.

In the mid-20th century, Native artists such as Charles Loloma (Hopi) and Lee Yazzie (Navajo) pushed the boundaries of traditional jewelry, blending modern aesthetics with traditional techniques.

Modern Native American Jewelry

Today, Native jewelry remains a thriving art form, blending traditional motifs with contemporary designs. Artisans continue to create both handmade, one of a kind pieces and more commercialized styles. Jewelry is still deeply tied to Native identity, storytelling, and heritage, with ongoing efforts to protect authentic Native made pieces from mass produced imitations.